Whether you’re altering, hacking, or drafting- an important part of sewing is working with patterns. It’s just something you can’t get around. To do any kind of pattern work, you’re going to need the proper tools. Today, I’m going to share my top 10 essentials that I always reach for when I do any kind of pattern work. This list includes a cutting table, tracing paper on a roll, clear 2″ ruler, L-Square ruler, Vary Form Curve ruler, measuring tape, mechanical pencils, pattern weights in the form of cans, paper scissors, and scotch magic tape. Let’s learn more about what these tools are and how they’re used.
1. Cutting Table
This goes without saying but you need a decent sized flat, smooth, surface. You’ll want something at least long enough to fit an entire piece of the pattern you are working on (if it’s a maxi dress that can get kind of long). You want something smooth so you can create clear lines, accurately measure and true up pieces. In the world of home sewing that may be the dining room table or even the floor (I’ve been there!), but investing in a table is really the best bet. I use the Sullivan’s folding table and it’s been perfect for any work I need to do. It’s 60” long so it’s been able to fit all of my projects. Plus it folds down so it works great if you have space constraints.
2. Tracing Paper on a Roll
Another obvious need is paper. The question is- what paper? If you’re a professional pattern maker, you’re going to want to use oak tag and brown paper, but working at home- I haven’t found that to be the best. It may sound unconventional, but tracing paper on a roll is what I use. It’s the easiest and most economical option. It’s crisp so it’s easy to fold and draw on. It’s fairly stable so you won’t have any problems working with it. And the best of all- it’s see thru. This also makes tracing Burda magazine patterns super easy.
As a runner up, I like Swedish tracing paper. But it’s expensive so I only use it when absolutely necessary. It’s really helpful when doing full dresses with more detailed design elements because it’s pliable enough to check your work with draping.
3. Clear 2″ Ruler
I don’t know what I would do without this ruler. It’s just a great all purpose ruler. You can see through it which makes it easy to draw parallel lines. It’s thin so it’s easy to use. The markings are fine so you have the necessary precision up to 1/16 of an inch. It’s really just the best all purpose sewing ruler. Sometimes mine have broken and I use the smaller pieces for fashion illustration, marking embroidery blanks, and measuring garment hems.
4. L- Square
This is not as easy to find as most items on my list, but I’m listing it because I really do reach for this all the time. If you have trouble finding it, you can always purchase it from Wawak’s website. It has a perfect 90 degree angle which is important for pattern work since sewing patterns are half pattern and you need those perpendicular lines.
5. Vary Form Curve
Curve rulers are so important for sewing because the body has curves. The Vary Form Curve ruler is the one I always reach for. This ruler has a variety of curves all along the edges so you can always get a perfect curve no matter what kind you need whether its a slight curve (which is good for neckline, hems, and waistlines) or a more deeper curve (which is used for crotches, hips, and armholes). The measurement markings are also helpful, even though I always walk my curves with measuring tape for accuracy. This another tool that you can get from Wawak if you have trouble finding it.
6. Measuring Tape
Speaking of walking curves, this is what I use. It’s the most accurate way to measure curves. Plus it’s longer than any ruler so you’ll also need it if you’re working with longer pattern pieces.
7. Mechanical Pencil
Sewing patterns are all about precision and you need to have a fine point for accuracy. When I was in school, we used a lead holder and pencil sharpener. But mechanical pencils really are the best. They’re economical, easy to find, and you never need to sharpen your point. I like .5, but .7 works, too.
8. Cans
Yes, you read that right! These are the best pattern weights, seriously. I personally find a weight to be an essential when working with patterns (and cutting out!). Cans have just worked best for me. They’re really not that big and you always have them available. Plus the top is perfect for setting small stuff you might need on, like needles, pins, a small piece of chalk. So if you see a canned good in the background of my sewing pictures, that’s why it’s there.
9. Paper Scissors
Sharp cutting scissors are a necessity. Keep a separate pair for paper so you’re not dulling the blade on your fabric scissors.
10. Scotch Magic Tape
Best tape ever. It has a matte finish so you can write on it. This is sooo important. When you’re slashing and spreading, you’ll need to tape your pieces back together and true your seamline. You’ll need to be able to write right on top of the tape for accuracy. When you’re ironing your pattern pieces, just make sure to avoid ironing the spots with tape.
Other Tools
So you may notice some tools that you’ve see other places that are are not on my list. That includes the pattern notcher, needle point tracing, awl and stapler. These are important for pattern drafting when you’re working with oak tag. Because I use tracking paper, I really don’t have any need for these. In fact, I couldn’t even find any one of my awls to photograph it for you. That’s how infrequently I use these tools.
Conclusion
So there you have it. This list is my top 10 essentials that I reach for every time I need to do any kind of pattern alteration or drafting. Just a recap, my essentials are: a cutting table, tracing paper on a roll, clear 2″ ruler, L-Square ruler, Vary Form Curve ruler, measuring tape, mechanical pencils, pattern weights in the form of cans, paper scissors, and scotch magic tape. I would be lost without these in my sewing room!
What are you’re essential tools for altering or drafting patterns? Do you agree with my list? Or does yours look different?